Jeld wen vs reliabilt windows

I've got a post just below "newbie needing advice" that states where I started at with some qoutes and where I'm at now. My latest qoutes have me in either a Simonton Prism Bronze or a Polaris Thermal Weld for 3 or 4 hundred more than a Reliabuilt or the Silverline I can go to the Polaris Valu-smart and be a couple a hundred less than the Reliabuilt or Silverline.

The biggest difference I've found is the warranty coverage and the reputation of the company as far as handling a warranty issue. Most people say Simonton is one the best as far as keeping their customers happy and locally I've heard good things about Polaris. Again, I'm very new to the new window and these are just some of the conclusions that I've came to.

Some of the more knowledgable people here might correct me if I'm wrong. I have learned major thing Hope this helps a little. U-factor is not the only determinant for evaluating a window. You need to consider build quality, air infiltration, product reputation, how will the window look and function in 2 years, resale value, durability, and so on. Two windows with a similar U-factors do not necessarily perform the same.

U-factor evaluations are done in a static environment, meaning that they are not subject to any environmental conditions other than temperature. That is not really real world evaluation. U-factor is a great start, but just one of the tools available that is designed to be standardized.

I have heard that complete removal of the existing window, frame and mounting brackets is the best. Cotractors are wanting to use the existing allumiun frame for the new casement. Which is better and is there better quality windows that you could recommend. Thanks John John L. We are having window failure with our Crestline Windows and are having to replace them. Wince we are second owners, they refuse to stand behind their warranty. How did you manage to accomplish your replacements? We are confused also.

Quaker, Crestline,or Pella?? All have mixed reviews. We are in need of 2 new construction casement windows. Why would you go thru the expense of redoing all the wood trim and then put a cheap window in the opening?

Cheap windows also leak a lot of air, so if you want something that will be air tight, you will have to invest in a quality window.

I have never understood why someone would say they can't afford to put in a good window. What's expensive is putting in cheap ones and then having to replace them again in a few years after the lesson has been learned once again, that cheap products are low priced for a reason.

And don't even get me started on the quality of workmanship you will likely get from Blue or Orange. Please don't take this the wrong way but, if your only goal is to save money, then just leave your existing windows and tape plastic wrap on them. Then spend the money you saved on attic insulation or something that will actually give you some long term benefit.

Since no one has answered your question yet, I will. I would choose the Milgard if I only had those three choices. You have a lifetime warranty and you aren't that far from their Temecula location. And yes, it would be better than your existing aluminum windows. Check the weeping system as far letting dust in. If you can see the weeps from inside with the window closed, you are going to continue to have a dust problem when the wind is really blowing.

How are you going to go new construction? Are you removing all the exterior around the window? True new construction means that you are setting in a nailing flange window. Thank you all for your opinions. I expected to hear that we shouldn't go with the inexpensive windows. We could wait until we can afford good windows to do the interior window trim. However, I would hate to do that because we've already purchased the casing for a very inexpensive price: We'll be doing the labor ourselves so it will be more of an investment of time than money.

I forgot to mention that the windows we're considering replacing are in the most sheltered location of our home. They're under a large overhang so they're not exposed to any rain.

They are at the back of our home. The wind almost always blows toward the front of the house. Eastbay 10, thank you for sharing your opinion about the Milgard windows.

I'm leaning toward that brand. I went to Lowes today and asked about the Pella windows. The saleperson said that they carry Jeld-Wen, Pella and Milgard. He said that he would choose the Milgards because they have a nicer fit and finish than the Jeld-Wens.

The Pella is much more expensive than the Milgard but very similar in quality. He doesn't think the Pellas are worth the extra cost. The Milgard line they carry is Montecito. Another place gave me a quote for Milgard Style Line. Any opinions on whether the Style Line or Montecito is better and what the differences are? Lowes had Pella windows on display. To my inexperienced eye, they looked great. Ours don't slide well and have tracks that are nearly impossible to clean.

When we do clean them, they fill up with dirt again within a couple of weeks. Our aluminum windows have lasted 20 years but some of them don't stay up anymore. What do you guys think about buying inexpensive windows just for the sheltered areas in the back?

Later, we could replace the front windows with a better quality product. I know I sound like a real cheapskate. However, we can't ignore our financial situation. I know too many people who have taken out large home equity loans for home improvements only to lose their homes. We're in the middle of a major bathroom renovation.

Once that is done, we plan to start on the kitchen. Compromises will be made there as well. Although I'd love get new kitchen cabinets, we'll have to settle for repainting the old ones and will be doing all of the labor ourselves. I have to admit that I'd rather live with inexpensive windows than an ugly bathroom and kitchen. Windowswashington, yes we will cut the exterior in order to install the new construction windows. Todd, no offense but as a pro, why would you ever install " cheap windows" for your customers.

I have a Silverline in my basement, it has been there for 5 years with no problems and no air leaks. I do get back to some of the houses I have done and problems have quite minimal. The biggest problems with cheap windows is that a lot of them are installed by someone with no experience or the wrong experience.

It is quite common to see them with visable daylight between the frame and sash or installed out of square. As a window professional I do advise customers on quality, but some of the cheaper windows have served well if installled professionally.

I also do installs for other companies and my job is to install the window only. What is the cheapest window you would install? We are starting a job this week removing cheap windows purchased 7 years ago due to bowed meeting rails.

Several windows are bowed so bad they cannot be locked. The bowing had nothing to do with a poor installation. It had to do with the homeowner buying cheap windows. The grids are misaligned also. What brand and model of windows are they? Did anyone contact the manufacturer on replacing the sashes under warranty? I have replace bowed sashes from high and low end manufactures alike and many rotted wood sashes and frames from respected companies.

The windows are lifetime warranted for spliting cracking, chipping and peeling. Not for warping. The manufacturer has been out to see the windows. They said the grids are within specs and the bowing is due to the opening out of square and the installer forced the windows into the opening.

They claim that's what caused the bowing. It isn't and the installation is fine. You know Toddinmn, you are the only installer I have ever encountered who never has problems specific to cheap windows but at the same time has more problems with quality windows than other installers. Why is that? As I stated, "I have had problems with both high end and low end windows". As I also stated I would stay away from Jeld-Wen. As I also stated the biggest problems with cheap window is cheap installations.

I have replaced more Marvin's due to rot more than I replaced bowed sashes on vinyls. This may have more to do with who I was working for at the time then the actual product itself. I believe there was just a post about a Marvin grid having to wide of a gap that was replaced more than once and still is not satisfactory.

I have never had a problem with Silverline,Atrium or Simonton standing behind there product and they all almost always send out replacement sash or parts with no questions asked.

Have you tried talking to Jeld-Wen on the owners behalf, sometimes it takes more than one try. Maybe it's because we are further South but brittle vinyl and sashes bowing are not that unusual. I have never had anything to do with Jeld-Wen and they have already made their decision after visiting the homeowners property. Frankly, the homeowner has been worn down and just wants good windows. The existing windows also leak water because the welds have become seperated where the stile meets the sill and has caused damage to the interior drywall.

I have no idea what we will find once we remove the Jeld-Wens. I can already see signs of mold. Thank you for your input. Do you like the Ply-Gem and Reliabilt brands better than Milgard? Of the three, which do you like best? All Milgard windows come with a full lifetime warranty. I hope it covers warping. It's helpful to know that not all warranties cover all types of damage. I'll definitely read the fine print before making a final decision.

My brother-in-law has had Milgard windows for twelve years and loves them.